Awakening: Respite - Marie, Grand Duchess of Russia

Chapter 20

Marie had been learning and growing through her friendship with Father Michael and Dr. Tishin. She would learn of what no one in her circles would have been hearing. The more she learned, the more she realized the less she knew.

From her words, below.

“I saw Russia was sick.” (Page 230) She could sense but was not clear on the details. “I did not know where to turn next in my groping for the truth; and daily I had to face disappointments and the wrecking of old ideals.” (Page 230) “But I felt I had at least started on the road of discovery; at least a beginning was made, and I had all my life before me. That thought sustained even exhilarated me. I was in a word, after all these years, really beginning to get an education.” (Page 230) She had a new, refreshed, more connection with Russian literature. “It spoke of feelings and emotions which at last I could share.” (Page 230) She read authors Tishen had read and he would often read outlaid. “He had good diction and a pleasant voice.” (Page 231) He enjoyed reading plays.

Father Michael and Marie would spend many evenings listening to Dr. Tishin. Sometimes it would be a classic play. Dr. Tishin would distribute roles as would share in reading character lines. Following, they would have a discussion on the reading. As Marie noted, they discussed an author “whose existence, as often than not, had been kept in the past a secret from me.” (Page 231)

Marie had also focused on Russian history, as in her earlier years, she had been taught of the “official point of view” and now she was learning more from unofficial “principles and premises.” (Page 231) In Pskov, there “relics of antiquity, the Russian history and Orthodox religion became alive to me.” (Page 231) These experiences helped her through all the suffering and difficulty she experienced.

Pskov had been a trade route around 13th century and Kiev was the political center. Since there was a decline. The populations started to migrate. Some moved to the Carpathian Mountains and some north in the forest regions. On the outskirts of Russia, new principalities were developing. The largest one was Great Novgorod. Between the 13th and 14th centuries, the land spread from the Bay of Finland to the White Sea. In the west and southwest, there was protection against foreign invasions and there were several fortresses in Novgorod. While Pskov was key in area, Novgorod was a large commercial center where Russian goods were bartered in exchange for dry goods, metal wares, and wines. Merchants would come from Visby town on the Island of Gotland. Novgorod was a republican styled government which included a people’s council and districts where people had the right to participate.

In Pskov in the 14th century, trade was strong, including in arms. Pskov and Novgorod were separated by vote. Marie noted that “Pskov was even better organized and more stable than that of Novgorod.” (Page 232) In 1916, Pskov was a beautiful city. “It rose on and around rocky promontory at the point where the river Pskov falls into a wide and deep river, the Velikaya. The imposing ruins of the wall of its ancient inner fortress, the detinez, are still to be seen. In the ancient times, the city was built around this fortress and was then surrounded by an outside wall, in several places still preserved. In the middle of the detinez rises the immense and somewhat awkward-looking Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, first built in the twelfth century but burnt many times since, and restored to its present state in the reign of Peter the Great.” (Page 232) Architecture was “low, squat, with uneven walls and cut off corners that became larger towards the foundation.” (Page 232) “They were always whitewashed and usually had green cupolas and roofs.” (Page 232) The Bell towers had “flat square columns and under the smaller green roofs of these towers, through oblong openings. You could see bells of all dimensions. The walls of these old churches were so thick that the interior was surprisingly small; and their vaults were supported by two or four pillars so massive as to leave, in the end, very little room for a congregation.” (Page 232)

Pskov was less provincial; the snow hid the “dirt” and undesired look. (Page 233) Behind the hospital on the high bank of the river Velikaya, seemed to be the remains of an old estate. There was heavy snow on the river’s surface. The sun shown the golden church crosses. She came upon a monastery with a crumbling wall. There were some monks living there. Marie would often find antiques while walking through the cemetery. She had found a mural painted around 12th or 13th century “covered with whitewash.” (Page 233) She had thought to herself that after the war she would have plenty to do until she died.

Marie enjoyed visiting nunneries and monasteries, as she found the customs were preserved. Before her work at the hospital, Marie would sometimes help with mass. Usually there were only a small number of attendees. The nuns would replace the large candlesticks that were place to highlight the ikons. The choir performed more rote than with passion. Across the street, Marie went to visit with the abbess. There were slipcovers over the furniture. At the head of the table was boiling samovar with cups around it. Further down, there were hot wafers and jam. Sometimes the Mother Treasurer would come in to share a finished embroidered piece. At the end of the conversation, the abyss would begin to speak about the high price of flour and the poverty in the nunnery.

Marie learned to restore the dusty, cobwebbed ikons. She began to lean from an art specialist how to clean “board, blackened with smoke and age.” (Page 234) Marie enjoyed seeing the bright colors once scrapping of the dirt and seeing saint images. She had begun to see that once an antique object was damaged or broken altogether, it was thrown out. Marie was inspired to begin cataloging with photographs and sketched. She gained approval from the local bishop. Pskov had an archeological society. Also she had conferred with those at Petrograd on a variety of historical and archeological topics.

The “Old Believers” were “members (who) belonged to a priestless sect that controlled almost the entire wheat trade. Its adherents lived according to the ancient customs, sedate and secluded.” (Page 235)

In Pskov, others were learning of Marie’s interest in ikons. “The local warden, a rich wheat merchant, invited me to visit their public prayer-house and his private chapel.” (Page 235-236) She was greeted with low bows by some bearded merchants. These men wore long coats “gathered at the waist” and “their hair was cut at the nape of their necks, in a round even line.” (page 236) “Their women servants wore black sarafans, white sleeves, and black kerchiefs.” (page 236)

Books before printing existed, were hand written and often translated differently - and would differ based on the translating based on the letter or based on the meaning. Marie referenced, the Mid 17th century Moscow patriarch, Nikon, that “entrusted (were) Greek and Russian theologians with the verification of the translations and the correction of all mistakes in the books of the church.” (Page 236) Many remained connected to the version they had. The smaller groups and sects did not recognize ordained priesthood. The Old Believers cared for the ancient books, ikons, utensils of the church. This group was conservative politically.

In their private chapel, there was “true antiquity.” (Page 237) She felt a feeling of retreat for generations who were accustomed to a style of comfort and prosperous living. The ladies of the families wore heavy silk dresses that had narrow bodices and their dresses buttoned all the way down. Their skirts were gathered at the waist. “Their heads and shoulders were covered with old fashioned silk shawls.” (Page 237)

The chapel was “a small vaulted room.” There was a scent of incense and “some remarkable 17th century famous Moscow ikon painters. The chapel had an “old metal lamp, burning oil, hung from the ceiling on perforated chains.” (Page 237) “In front of the ikons burned candles home-made candlesticks, ancient and low. Crosses and rosaries decorated the wall. Church utensils shone in the dim light here and there. On a high pre-diet reposed in honor of a very ancient manuscript book in a dark leather binding with metal clasps.” (Page 237)

Over tea in the chapel, political and attitudes of the authorities in that community shared and they spoke that despite the persecutions, they were devoted to their Tsar. “They were accusing the government officials of instigating these persecutions.” (Page 237) An example was shared. Years before the war, the Emperor was expected to attend military maneuvers. The Old Believers had wanted to greet their sovereign with bread and salt upon a magnificent silver platter. But the governor, having learned of their intentions, prevented their delegation from being received. The platter had not served its purpose and the warden, showing it to me, begged me to accept it. I refused it, for myself, but promised to give it personally to the Emperor.” (Page 237-238)

Spring 1916, Marie went to Novgorod, instead of Tsarskoie-Selo. She stopped at a nunnery as hotels were “filthy.” (Page 238) The Cathedral of St. Sophia was built in the 10th century by Yaroslav the Wise. While the building had not been restored, the inner and outer appearance had “majesty.” (Page 238) Some of the ikons were thought to be of the Byzantine era. Along the walls were silver shrines of saints - princes who had defended the city and the bishops who had cared for the difficult populace. She went to visit the village of Mikhailovskoie where the poet Pushkin original home had once been. The original home had burned down and another home was built. It was furnished with furniture and affects of the poet. "Marie stayed in a large antique bed of “solid mahogany with pillars and bronze medallions.” (Page 238) In the evening, she sat. on the veranda with other companions and enjoyed the view of the “limitless fields.” (Page 238) She had watched the setting of the sun just over the “overgrown reeds.” (Page 238)

These “diversions and excursions were, it must be understood, of short duration and were widely spaced throughout the greater part of 2 years.” (Page 239)

Marie was becoming aware of her personnel becoming unhappy with the “inglorious drudgery” (Page 239) and became restless. She asked if her unit could be moved to the front. She had organized a mobile sub-unit which was sent to the front at Dvinsk, 75 miles from Pskov. There they helped men in the trenches and sent the more serious ones to the Pskov hospital. There was a sanitary train “which bore my name and over which I had full command.” (Page 239)

During Winter 1916, she went to Dvinsk and located a building where could detach. Things had changed so much. The soldiers changed. They “looked shabby and miserable. Neither song or laughter was heard anywhere. Everything was grey, dull, and dismal.” (Page 239) The complicated structures built, looked permanent and more fortress-like. Those men in the trenches became disconnected over time and were “indifferent that when German planes circled over them, not one of them so much as raised his head.” (Page 240) Marie’s visits to the line became more “distressful” each visit. (Page 240)

Princess Lucien Murot, who Marie knew in Paris, had come to learn more and came to visit Marie. She had recognized Marie had changed, while Marie’s family had not noted any changes. On the Princess’s arrival, they drove in an open car in cold temperatures and the drive was slow due to the snow. They spent the night in a railway carriage. The locals came to pay respects there. While they were at the trenches, no shots fired. The enemy did not come over and the Princess felt disappointed she was not seeing any live time action. During the time there, the Princess had shared with Marie some of the rumors that had been spreading. The Princess also spoke of her interview with Rasputin. She commented that Rasputin had “his eyes were of an awe inspiring power.” (Page 240) Marie, her father, and her brother had never met Rasputin. Marie was surprised why the Princess, “a cultured woman,” would have wanted to meet him. (Page 241) Up to Rasputin’s death, he had “a group of excited, hysterical women and exerted over them, it was said, an accountable power.” (Page 241)

Marie had not really believed that talk. She knew the Empress’s attachment related to her anxiety over the Tsarevich’s health, and believed he would be able to help her son. The implication or suggestion was the Princess believed that Rasputin had power over the Empress and affected the course of “national affairs.” (Page 241) Marie said, “I was dumbfounded.” (Page 241)